

Outside city hall - which sells wine stoppers in its tourist office - workers hammered cobblestones into a pedestrian piazza being converted from a traffic circle to make the town more inviting for an increasing number of visitors. That is music to the ears of Valdobbiadene’s mayor, Luciano Fregonese, who - while proud that a pope was born in the town about 700 years ago - is focused on making his community a pilgrimage site for Prosecco enthusiasts.

“No husbands, no children, just Prosecco,” said Lucia Figurova, 33. Two Slovakian women emerged from Valdobbiadene’s vineyards and stopped next to a couple enjoying two morning glasses of Prosecco. Bortolomiol said.įor now, people know where to go. With his back to dusty bottles of the hill’s best spumante through the decades, he sat with tented hands on an elevated seat and argued that the good name of Prosecco had been irrevocably sullied by overproduction on the mechanically harvested and viticulturally uninteresting provinces that accounted for 500 million of the 600 million bottles on the market. Around him, frescoes depicted the society’s four founding fathers knocking some chalices back with giddy medieval knights, a topless Bacchus and women in slinky togas. Bortolomiol, 55, wore a heavy white fustian cloak, black velvet cap and a gold medallion embossed with the brotherhood’s coat of arms. The grandmaster of the Confraternity of Valdobbiadene - a hallowed society of Prosecco makers from the wine’s traditional home on the Valdobbiadene and Conegliano hills - Mr. Bortolomiol’s first cousin - argued that the conflict over the Croatian wine presented a rare chance to advance a radical agenda: The time had come to ditch the name Prosecco. In a dark and vaulted cellar under a stone Prosecco museum on the Valdobbiadene hillside, Enrico Bortolomiol - Ms. “The important thing is to have an enemy,” he said. drug bust, he put seized Romanian “Pro-Secco,” a 10-pack of glitter “Prosecco Bath Bombs” and Prosecco Princess Shower Gel on the table of his headquarters. The European Union, in a major buzz kill for a Spritz-fueled multibillion euro industry, last month agreed to consider a longstanding application by Croatia to recognize Prosek, a method of making an obscure sweet - and still - dessert wine of the same name.Īs if demonstrating the yield of a D.E.A. War and internal strife have come to Prosecco country. Bortolomiol said a surprise attack had “disoriented us.”

An owner of the Bortolomiol winery and new president of a consortium of producers, Ms. “I feel like I’m going to battle,” said Elvira Maria Bortolomiol as she pantomimed carrying a rifle in an airy tasting room next to her vineyards. Couples clinked glasses in the town’s quaint Prosecco bars.īut behind the effervescent front, producers of Italy’s wildly popular sparkling white wine in the northeastern Veneto region were on war footing. Workers harvesting in the terraced vineyards squinted in the sun. VALDOBBIADENE, ITALY - Small pickup trucks carrying mounds of green grapes wound through Prosecco Road.
